 It’s one of the most common questions I get asked, and it’s a great question: "Do you train with positive reinforcement?" Here's my answer.
If you’ve spent any time researching dog training lately, you’ve noticed it’s become loud. There are strong opinions, labels being thrown around, and a growing pressure to pick one approach and stand firmly in it. This noise often pulls the conversation away from what truly matters: the dog in front of us. I’m not interested in winning a debate; I’m interested in being fair to the dog and helping them succeed in the real world. So, yes, positive reinforcement is a big part of my approach. But it’s not the whole picture. Fairness Over Philosophy When I look at a dog, I’m not thinking about my training label. I’m asking a simpler question: What is fair to this dog, in this moment? Fairness matters more than philosophy. Dogs don’t care about styles; they care about whether the information we give them makes sense; clarity. They are constantly trying to figure out how to navigate the world we’ve placed them in. When our information is unclear or inconsistent, they don’t become stubborn—they become confused. Confusion quickly turns into frustration for both the dog and the person on the other end of the leash. The Danger of the Human Lens Part of the confusion stems from how deeply we love our dogs. We bring them into our families, and it becomes easy to view them through a human lens. We assign intention to their behaviors, assume they “know better,” and try to reason or explain things to them. While there is nothing wrong with loving your dog like family, a dog is not human, and we cannot treat them as though they are. Respecting the dog means communicating in a way that actually makes sense to them. They don't need long explanations or repeated commands; they need clarity, patterns, and immediate feedback. Where Positive Reinforcement Shines This is where positive reinforcement plays a crucial role. We reward the behaviors we want to see more of, acknowledge good decisions, and build engagement. When a dog offers eye contact and hears “yes,” or makes a calm choice that is recognized, they understand that their choices matter. This builds confidence, trust, and a relationship where the dog is willing to try. However, on its own, positive reinforcement can leave a gap. The Need for Clear Direction If a dog is only ever told when they’re right, but never given clear information when they’re wrong, they are left to piece things together on their own. Imagine going through life with encouragement but only silence when you miss the mark—that leads to frustration. Dogs feel this frustration because their world isn’t fully explained to them. Clarity isn't just about praise; it is also about direction. The Place for a Clear "No" Sometimes, that direction includes a clear “no”. This isn't harsh or emotional—it's just a clear way of saying, "That choice won’t work; let’s try something else". Think about your own life: the people you respect most are often those who are consistent and maintain fair rules. In contrast, when boundaries constantly shift or are nonexistent, it creates uncertainty and anxiety, not freedom, for everyone involved. For a dog, this lack of clarity is destabilizing. Fair and consistent boundaries are not a form of restriction; they are a fundamental support system for the relationship. They give the dog something reliable to lean on, which in turn allows them to relax, trust your guidance, and truly settle down. Correction vs. Punishment The word “correction” often makes people uneasy. But in my world, a correction is never punitive. Punishment is unfair and breaks trust. A correction is a non-emotional interruption to create a pause—a chance for the dog to stop, think, and shift. This interruption may sometimes be physical, like a quick pop on the collar or a squirt of water on the nose, but the intention is never to cause harm; it is simply to interrupt the behaviour. It is fair to the moment. Crucially, we don't just stop the behavior and walk away. We must guide the dog and show them what to do instead. Without that guidance, a correction is just noise. With it, it becomes communication. I look at it like a sentence. The interruption is only the first word, the guidance completes the sentence and makes it have meaning. Clarity Completes the Picture It all comes back to communication that is clear, calm, and consistent. Dogs don’t need more words; they need better timing, clarity, and direction. When that happens, the dog stops reacting and starts thinking—they pause, look, process, and make different choices. The goal isn't a perfectly obedient robot, but a dog who understands how to navigate the world in a way that works for both of you. I use positive reinforcement as a foundational part of training. But my responsibility is to provide clear, fair communication so the dog understands the full picture: what works, what doesn't, and how to move forward. Positive reinforcement builds the relationship. Clarity, through fairness, is what completes it. When those two elements come together, that’s when you finally find the companion you’ve always wanted—a dog that is truly present with you, calm in their own skin, and ready to navigate life by your side. Ready to start your journey? Contact us today to learn how we can help you and your dog build a relationship based on trust, clarity, and success.  Instinct Canine Training didn’t begin as a business plan. It began as an instinct.
A desire to do better for dogs, and for the people who love them. A quiet but persistent feeling that training could be more thoughtful, more honest, and far more human than what I was seeing. And at the centre of it all was Mia. Mia is my heart and soul dog. The kind of dog who changes how you think, how you listen, and how you show up. She wasn’t easy, and she wasn’t meant to be. She is sensitive, intuitive, deeply aware of energy and environment, and she made it very clear early on that behaviour is never just behaviour. It’s communication. That lesson became the backbone of Instinct Canine Training. The Long Way Into Training (and the Right One) I always wanted to train dogs. That part was never a question. My path just took the long way around. I started in college studying Animal Care, then moved into service dog work, followed by several years working in veterinary clinics. Those experiences shaped how I see behaviour. When you watch dogs in exam rooms, under stress, in pain, or overwhelmed, you quickly learn that behaviour, health, environment, and emotion are deeply intertwined. From there, I worked in pet insurance, a role that provided an immense depth of knowledge about animal health. I gained a deep understanding of the medical conditions dogs face, how they present, how often they’re missed, and how profoundly they can affect behaviour. That experience taught me to always consider health as part of the puzzle. Dogs who don’t feel well don’t act normally. Just like us. That perspective stays with me in every case I work on. Everything shifted after I got Mia. I enrolled in dog training classes as a client, wanting to learn more. Curiosity turned into commitment, and I signed up for a one-year apprenticeship. I was hired within six months. I loved that job. It gave me a strong foundation, real-world experience, and mentorship I will always be grateful for. That first start mattered, and I don’t forget it. When Everything Changed Then COVID hit. Like many parents, I suddenly needed to be home for young children navigating online school. (It was, politely, rough.) Training full-time outside the home wasn’t possible, but dogs and their people still needed support, arguably more than ever. I began taking on clients one at a time. Word of mouth spread. Eventually, I started offering small group classes out of a rented dance studio. COVID was a defining time for dog training. Many people rose quickly as “trainers” during that period. Some meant well. Some had confidence without depth. And over time, most of them disappeared. Dog training is a tough profession. Few people realize how much of it is education, admin, emotional labour, and responsibility. And fewer still have the skills required to create lasting results. That isn’t me being boastful. Far from it. I don’t think I will ever know enough. This field demands humility and continued learning. What I do know is what my clients consistently tell me, they see something different, and it works. I’m not sure what the secret sauce is.But I do know I adore what I’m doing. The 80% You Didn’t Expect Dog training is about 20% dog. The other 80% is people. Every behaviour concern exists inside a real household, with real routines, real stressors, real limitations, and real emotions. If a training plan doesn’t fit your life, it won’t last. And if it doesn’t last, it doesn’t matter how technically correct it is. Somewhere along the way, I realized that being a dog trainer also meant becoming a listener. A guide. Occasionally, a therapist. Behaviour work requires empathy, honesty, and the ability to meet people where they are, not where we think they should be. There’s no judgment here. Only problem-solving, clarity, and support. Mia, My “Good Dog, Bad Dog” Mia is an incredible dog. She is intuitive in ways that still amaze me. When my daughter has an anxiety attack, Mia knows. She stays close, grounds her, and helps bring her back down. She’s affectionate, deeply connected, well trained, and hands down the best cuddler I’ve ever known. She also counter-surfs. If we leave the house without blocking off the kitchen, she will help herself to the garbage. Yes, I know crates prevent that. We chose baby gates. Life is full of compromises. She is also a guard dog. She barks to alert. That took me time to accept. For a long while, I tried to train it out of her, until I realized I was fighting who she is rather than understanding her role. Mia taught me to honour the dog in front of me, not the dog I thought I should have. I carry that with every training session I have with clients. She is my good dog and my bad dog. And she is the reason Instinct Canine Training exists. Why Instinct Canine Training Instinct Canine Training is built on relationships. Dog to human.Human to human.Trust at both ends of the leash. It’s about fulfilment, not perfection. About building a relationship where dogs feel understood and supported, and people feel capable and confident. It’s about learning how to communicate clearly, trust the process, and trust each other. At its core, this work is about honouring the dog in front of you, supporting the human on the other end of the leash, and creating a relationship that feels steady, respectful, and sustainable in real life. With that, you will have a dog who follows you to the ends of the earth. That’s the why. Everything else grows from there. 💜  Barking is one of the most common (and frustrating) behaviours dog owners deal with. Whether it’s triggered by a squirrel, the doorbell, boredom, or just general commentary on life—it can feel endless.
And sometimes, the barking is directed right at you: “Feed me.” “Play with me.” “Why did you stop petting me?” That’s called demand barking, and yes, we’ll cover that too. This blog is your guide to understanding why your dog barks, how we sometimes accidentally make it worse, and what to do about it. Whether you’ve got a new puppy or a grown adult dog with opinions about the world, there’s something in here for you. How We Accidentally Reinforce Barking Those early days with a new dog often include a lot of unintentional training. They bark—and we respond. Maybe with a laugh, a “What do you need?” or even just eye contact. But to your dog? That equals attention. And attention is reinforcing, even if it’s not praise. So when your dog barks and you react—even with a “No!” or a frustrated sigh—you might actually be reinforcing the behaviour. From their perspective: “I bark, you engage. Works every time!” Not All Barks Are the Same Here’s the thing: barking is a completely natural canine behaviour. It’s how dogs express excitement, frustration, boredom, fear, and even joy. But not all barks sound the same—or mean the same thing. That high-pitched bark while you prepare dinner? That’s very different from the sharp, alert bark when looking out the window. Tuning into why your dog is barking is half the battle. When you understand the message, you can respond in a way that addresses the cause in a fair way—not just the noise. Demand Barking: A Common Culprit Demand barking is exactly what it sounds like—your dog barking to make you do something. It might be:
And if barking gets them what they want? You’ve just hired them to do it again tomorrow. The fix? Don’t engage. No eye contact, no words, no movement. It’s not easy, but it’s worth it. When your dog stops—even for a moment—that’s when you offer quiet praise or give them what they wanted on your terms- not theirs. Just make sure if you interrupt the barking, you follow up with clarity—not by caving in. Your Barking Toolbox Let’s walk through some practical ways to reduce barking and teach better habits. Teach a “Settle” Teaching your dog to “settle” builds impulse control and teaches them how to regulate themselves. The settle command, simply put, is used to communicate with your dog that it’s time to calm down in a space of your choosing. We put a leash on the dog and keep them close. No talking, touching or feeding during this time. Just quiet and calm. It may not be easy at first, but the effort is worth it! Practice in calm environments first, then add small distractions. It’s a great way to prevent overstimulation and help your dog make better choices. Need a handout or a refresher? Reach out—we’re happy to send it your way. Supervise and Stay Close If your puppy or newly adopted dog is out of their crate, they should be in your line of sight. A house line (a lightweight leash they drag around indoors) lets you step in gently when needed. When you’re nearby, you can catch the barking before it builds into a full-blown concert. Sometimes all it takes is a simple redirection into a task or training moment to reset the brain. Interrupt and Redirect When barking escalates, interruption is key. We’re not punishing—we’re pressing pause. You’re simply breaking the pattern so your dog can shift gears. Try:
Whatever you use, the method should be fast, firm, and fair. Then give your dog a job: sit, down, follow you for a short walk—anything to guide them back to a calm state. Think of barking like a glitter jar: once it’s been shaken, it needs time to settle. Don’t rush it. Let the moment breathe. Reinforce Calm Behaviour One of the most powerful (and often overlooked) strategies? Reinforce the calm before the storm. Dog lying quietly near the window? Mark that moment with a soft “good” and maybe drop a treat nearby. No hype. No squeaky praise. Just subtle reinforcement for the behaviour you actually want. We call this shaping calm—and it works. A Quick Note on Growling: Don’t Punish the Simmer While this blog focuses on barking, we can’t leave out an important cousin to the bark: the growl. Growling is not the same as barking—and it’s not “bad behaviour.” It’s communication. When a dog growls, they’re telling us they’re uncomfortable. It’s the simmer before boiling over. Imagine a pot of water starting to bubble. If we ignore it—or worse, clamp a lid on it—the pressure builds until it spills over. That’s exactly what can happen if we punish or suppress a growl. Before shutting it down, listen and take note. Ask yourself:
The fix isn’t to correct the growl—it’s to turn down the heat. That might mean backing away, removing the trigger, or giving your dog more space. For example:
Growling is a warning. And warnings are a gift. They give us time to respond before the barking (or worse, a bite) happens. Bottom line: don’t punish the growl. However, there are contingencies (like with almost every dog training rule). There is a time and a place to step up and address growling. Not out of conflict, but providing clarity. With a puppy who growls over a toy towards the handler - we promptly address that. An older dog who growls at another, we may need to show them they don’t need to worry and that we have their back. Need help with this? We are more than happy to! Respect it, observe it, and respond thoughtfully. That’s how we build trust—and prevent escalation. Final Thoughts: Build Calm, Break the Habit Barking is a habit. And like any habit, it sticks when it pays off. Whether it’s excitement, anxiety, or attention-seeking, the approach is the same:
And remember: if you’re struggling to find the right strategy for your dog, you’re not alone. We’re here to help. Reach out anytime and let’s work on it—together.  Image source: Daily Paws As a dog owner, you know that keeping your canine companion entertained is essential for their happiness and well-being. When the weather outside isn’t conducive to a walk—be it rainy or too cold—providing mental stimulation becomes even more crucial. Here are some easy and budget-friendly enrichment ideas that will keep your dog's brain engaged and help tire them out mentally! 1. Scent Detection Scent detection is not only a fantastic way to mentally engage your dog but also strengthens the bond between you and your canine companion. You can set up simple scent trails using treats or specific scents and encourage your dog to sniff them out. This activity taps into their natural instincts and provides a rewarding challenge. How to Do It:
If you want to dive deeper, consider signing up for our scent detection class, where we teach dogs to search for a designated odour (wintergreen essential oil). In this class, we explore how scent detection works and build the drive to search for specific scents. It’s a fun way to engage your dog’s nose while enhancing your connection! 2. Towel Roll-Up For a creative twist on treat dispensing, use an old towel to make a delightful puzzle. Lay the towel flat and sprinkle some treats on it, then roll it up tightly. For an extra challenge, tie it in a knot! This activity encourages your dog to use their nose and paws to work for their rewards. How to Do It:
3. Snuffle Mats Snuffle mats are another great option for engaging your dog’s sense of smell. These mats are designed with fabric strips that hide treats, allowing your dog to forage for their rewards. This activity mimics natural foraging behaviour and provides both mental and physical stimulation. How to Do It:
4. Lick Mats Lick mats can provide a calming and enriching experience for your dog. Spread soft food like yogurt, peanut butter, or pumpkin over the mat’s surface. Your dog will enjoy licking it clean, which can help alleviate boredom and anxiety. How to Do It:
5. Muffin Tin Puzzle One simple and fun enrichment activity is to use a muffin tin. Place a treat in each cup, then cover the cups with a ball or another safe item. Your dog will have to figure out how to remove the ball to get to the treats, providing a fun challenge that stimulates their problem-solving skills. How to Do It:
6. DIY Tug Toy If your dog loves to tug, you can create a tug toy from old t-shirts or fabric scraps. Simply braid or tie the fabric together to create a sturdy toy. Tugging provides physical exercise and also satisfies your dog’s natural instincts. How to Do It:
7. Frozen Stuffed Toys For a cool treat that keeps your dog occupied, try stuffing a rubber dog toy (like a Kong or West Paw Topple) with soft ingredients such as mashed banana, applesauce, yogurt, raw food, or pumpkin, then freeze it. This method works better than using an ice cube tray and provides a longer-lasting challenge for your dog. How to Do It:
Why Enrichment Matters Engaging your dog's mind is just as important as physical exercise. Mental stimulation can reduce behavioural issues, alleviate boredom, and keep your dog happy and healthy. These activities are perfect for days when walks aren’t an option, allowing your dog to stay active and entertained without needing to venture outside. Remember, every dog is unique, so feel free to modify these activities to suit your dog's interests and abilities. Enjoy your time enriching your pup's life, and watch as they thrive with these simple yet effective ideas!  Adding Another Dog? Here’s how to Manage Expectations and Keep the Peace
Bringing a new dog into the family is exciting—but it’s also one of the biggest adjustments your household will make. Whether it’s a new puppy or a recently adopted dog, the early days are all about setting expectations and creating a safe foundation for both dogs. One of the most common mistakes I see is people throwing the dogs together to “figure it out.” This approach often leads to tension, confusion, and sometimes aggression. Dogs don’t thrive in chaos—they thrive with leadership, structure, and clear guidance from us. Monitor Every Interaction From day one, it’s your responsibility to monitor every single interaction. That means no free-for-alls in the living room, no unsupervised play in the backyard, and no assuming they’ll “work it out.” If one dog is uncomfortable—turning away, stiffening, growling, or snapping—it’s time for you to step in. Send the “offender” away calmly and fairly. This shows the bothered dog you have their back (so they don’t need to escalate,) and reminds the other dog that you are in control of the environment. This is leadership in action. Leashing both dogs during shared time indoors can also be a smart management tool, especially in the early weeks. It allows you to calmly guide them away from each other if needed, without conflict. Think of the leash as a seatbelt—it keeps everyone safe while you’re still learning the rules of the road together. Feeding Time Matters Food is one of the biggest flashpoints for resource guarding. For now, feed your dogs separately—crates are an excellent option. Once routines are established and both dogs trust the system, you may find they can eat in the same room with space between them. But this is a privilege, not a starting point. Give Each Dog Individual Time When I brought my second dog, Keziah, home as a puppy, I was intentional about how I managed her relationship with Mia. They never had unsupervised time together. I rotated between:
Leadership Comes First Before adding a second dog, it’s crucial that your first dog already has a foundation of training and listens to you. Dogs learn from each other—constantly “taking notes.” If your first dog has chaotic or pushy habits, your new dog will quickly pick them up. Without clear leadership from you, it’s a recipe for disaster. When the first dog is well-behaved and you’re established as the leader, the transition to a multi-dog household goes much more smoothly. When Not to Add Another Dog Sometimes, the kindest choice is not to bring another dog home—at least not yet. Here are some important considerations:
Top 3 Things to Remember
 The more I teach scent detection, the more I fall in love with it. On the surface, it might look like a fun game—your dog searches, finds, and you both celebrate. But behind the scenes, there’s something much deeper at play. Scent work taps into who our dogs truly are and what they were born to do.
Dogs Are Born to Smell Did you know that when puppies are born, their eyes and ears are sealed shut? For the first two weeks of their life, their sense of smell is the only way they experience the world. It’s how they find their mother, locate warmth, and start to navigate life. Smell isn’t just important to a dog—it’s foundational. And while humans have about 5 million scent receptors in our noses, dogs boast anywhere from 100 to 300 million, depending on the breed. To put it into perspective: if we can smell a teaspoon of sugar in a cup of coffee, a dog can detect that same teaspoon in two Olympic-sized swimming pools. Their ability is so refined that trained dogs can detect things like cancer cells, changes in blood sugar, or even the presence of explosives. Why Scent Detection Matters for Behaviour All of this science is fascinating, but the real magic happens when we put it into practice with our family dogs. Here’s why scent detection is so valuable:
While scent detection is a competitive sport for some, I’ve designed our classes with the family dog in mind. It’s not about ribbons or scores. It’s about honouring your dog’s natural instincts, giving them a job that’s deeply fulfilling, and having fun together. Every class I run, I see the “lightbulb” moments—dogs realizing they can do it, and owners seeing their dog in a whole new way. Those moments are priceless. Ready to Give It a Try? If you’re looking for something new and rewarding to do with your dog, our Intro to Scent Detection class is the perfect place to start. The atmosphere is relaxed and fun, and you don’t need any prior training experience to join us. All dogs are welcome (except reactive dogs, for everyone’s comfort and safety). 👉 Reach out today to reserve your spot and discover just how incredible your dog’s nose really is.  When working with reactive dogs, one of the most common misconceptions is that the reactivity is all about the leash. Many clients expect that the first lesson will focus on walking skills, but that’s not where we begin. Before addressing leash reactivity, it’s essential to reduce stress across multiple layers in a dog's life. Let’s explore the layered stress model and see how each stage contributes to reactivity, and how reducing stress at each layer helps create calmer, more responsive dogs.
1. Health: The Foundation of Behaviour At the base of the stress model is health. A dog in any kind of discomfort—whether it’s a headache, joint pain, or digestive upset—is more likely to react poorly to everyday stimuli. This doesn’t mean health issues excuse reactivity, but they certainly can amplify it. Think about how you feel when you have a headache; your patience tends to wear thin. A dog in pain experiences something similar but lacks the ability to express discomfort in the same way humans do. Instead of asking for relief, they may react to triggers in their environment, and this reactivity can easily be misunderstood. It’s crucial to recognize and address any underlying health concerns early on, so stress related to discomfort is reduced. This helps remove a huge stressor from your dog's life before tackling behavioural concerns. 2. Lifestyle: Fulfilling Your Dog’s Genetic Needs The next layer focuses on lifestyle, specifically fulfilling your dog’s biological needs. A dog’s genetics play a big role here—different breeds are wired to perform certain tasks, and when those instincts are unfulfilled, stress levels rise. Your dog may have strong urges to search, stalk, chase, or even celebrate after "catching" something. When those needs aren’t met in healthy, structured ways, frustration sets in, often manifesting as reactivity. Understanding what your dog is bred to do and providing them with appropriate outlets for those instincts is essential for lowering stress. Whether through activities like structured play, mental challenges, or physical exercise, ensuring your dog’s daily life fulfills their natural drives helps keep their stress levels manageable. When dogs feel satisfied on a biological level, they're far less likely to become reactive out of frustration. 3. Clarity: Rules, Boundaries, and Structure Clarity in a dog’s life means providing fair rules, boundaries, and structure. Without this, dogs often feel insecure or anxious. Changes in routine, such as moving to a new location or experiencing transitions like the back-to-school season, can elevate stress levels. Dogs thrive on predictability, and when their world lacks structure, they become more reactive as their stress levels rise. By maintaining consistent boundaries and routines, you help your dog feel more secure. For example, setting clear expectations for behavior in different environments or establishing a daily schedule can significantly reduce your dog’s stress. Dogs that know what to expect are better equipped to handle potential stressors without overreacting. 4. Leash Work: Communication, Not Control Only after addressing the foundational layers of health, lifestyle, and clarity do we move on to leash work. The leash is not just a tool for control—it’s a way of communicating with your dog. Many traditional training methods emphasize force or correction, but these often lead to a power struggle between dog and handler. This isn’t a tug-of-war but rather an opportunity to build a conversation through the leash. One of the most common mistakes people make is tightening the leash when a dog begins reacting. This creates tension, which only exacerbates the problem. It's a bit like training a dog in bite sports, where tension on the leash is used to build arousal and drive. When we give dogs space—such as putting them on a long line instead of a short leash—they naturally become more relaxed. Teaching a dog that the leash is a means of communication, rather than control, helps them trust and follow their handler without feeling pressure or anxiety. By giving them room to make choices, the leash becomes a tool for building confidence and reducing stress. 5. Triggers: The Final Layer At the top of the layered stress model, we have triggers. When dogs are already stressed from health issues, an unfulfilling lifestyle, lack of clarity, or improper leash handling, they have a much lower threshold for reacting to external stimuli. In other words, their “stress bucket” is already full. Even a minor trigger can cause them to overflow with reactivity. But when the lower layers are addressed, dogs can tolerate these triggers more easily. Think of it like this: if your partner sits down for dinner after a long, stressful day and the meat is slightly undercooked, they might overreact—not because of the meal itself, but because everything else in their day has pushed them to their breaking point. It’s the same with dogs. The trigger isn’t the real issue—it’s the culmination of stress from lower layers that leads to the eruption. By focusing on reducing stress at each lower level, from health and lifestyle to clarity and leash communication, you give your dog the ability to handle their triggers without boiling over. And while this process is not a quick fix, it sets the stage for a lifetime of joy and calmness with your dog. Conclusion: A Lifetime Commitment to Reducing StressThe layered stress model provides a roadmap for understanding and addressing reactivity. It’s not about managing triggers alone but about reducing overall stress in a dog’s life. By focusing on health, fulfilling their biological needs, providing structure, and refining your leash communication, you help your dog manage the triggers they encounter more gracefully. When we keep this approach in mind for the lifetime of our dogs, we build a deeper, more fulfilling relationship built on trust and balance.  If you’ve ever walked a dog that erupts at the sight of another dog—barking, lunging, growling—you know how overwhelming leash reactivity can be. It’s stressful, exhausting, and honestly? Even embarrassing at times. As a result, you start timing walks when fewer people are out. You cross the street in anticipation of the next outburst. You apologize. A lot.
And I get it—because I’ve been there too. Many years ago, I had a German shepherd mix named Tairin. At home, he was wonderful. Out on a walk? A total disaster. I used to call him “Tairin the Terrible.” He lunged and barked at everything. I wish I could tell you it got better—but the truth is, it didn’t. I wasn’t a dog trainer back then, and I had no idea how to help him. I tried all the wrong things. I failed him because I didn’t know what else to do. But I did learn what not to do. Every mistake I made with Tairin taught me something—and now, I use those lessons every day with my clients. I know the frustration. I know the embarrassment, the shame, the helplessness. I’ve felt them all. That’s why I approach leash reactivity with both compassion and clarity—because to me it’s personal. The Argument on the End of the Leash Leash reactivity usually stems from frustration, fear, or over-arousal. On walks, dogs often feel restrained and unable to act naturally when they see another dog. Instead of being able to sniff, approach, or move away, they’re locked into a tight leash with their human…who may start panicking and pulling back. This creates what I call “arguing through the leash.” The constant tension becomes a signal: “Get ready, something bad is coming.” Eventually, the leash itself becomes a trigger. Your dog learns to anticipate a problem before it even begins. And now? You’re both caught in a negative feedback loop. The Brain Behind the Bark Let’s get nerdy for a second. When your dog reacts on leash, it’s not a conscious choice—it’s a neurological hijacking. The amygdala (the brain’s fear and emotion centre) kicks in and sends a red-alert signal. Meanwhile, the frontal cortex—the part responsible for logic and decision-making—essentially goes offline. In that moment, your dog isn’t thinking. They’re surviving. And here’s the kicker: every time your dog reacts, that pathway gets stronger. It becomes their go-to response. The behaviour becomes more ingrained and harder to interrupt. That’s why early intervention can make such a difference. Working with a younger dog often gives us more flexibility in changing patterns. But even with older dogs, we can still make progress—it just may require a more layered approach that blends both training and thoughtful management. With the right plan, dogs of all ages can learn new ways to respond. Prevention Is Better Than Repair The best way to address leash reactivity? Don’t let it develop in the first place. That means proper training early on—teaching dogs how to walk calmly with you, how to disengage from distractions, and how to respond to pressure on the leash without panic. It also means setting appropriate social boundaries. Here’s a trainer tip that will save you a lot of grief: Don’t let your dog meet every other dog on leash. In fact, your life will be easier if they don’t meet any of them. That doesn’t mean your dog can’t be social. It just means you as the handler choose when and where play happens. Walks aren’t meet-and-greet events. They’re for decompression, bonding, movement, and working on calm behaviour. Not every dog loves all other dogs, and that’s okay. The more we teach neutrality, the less emotional weight your dog puts on every canine encounter. That’s the sweet spot. What We Do Differently at Instinct Canine Training Our approach to leash reactivity is layered, intentional, and rooted in both science and empathy. We begin far away from triggers—sometimes as far as a driveway or an open field. The goal isn’t to force the dog into tolerance. It’s to teach them a new way of thinking: See the trigger. Pause. Think. Wait. We use games like Magic Hand, It’s Mine, and Place to reinforce impulse control, disengagement, and calm decision-making. These aren’t distractions. They’re thought exercises that rewire the brain. And yes, we use tools—long lines, muzzles, prong collars, and e-collars—when appropriate, ethically, and always with proper guidance. These aren’t quick fixes or punishment devices. They’re communication tools used to enhance clarity and safety. Most importantly, we teach the human end of the leash. Because how you move, breathe, and respond—matters. Your energy flows down the leash before your words do. Final Thought: Don’t Wait If your dog is starting to get overly fixated, excited, or tense when they see other dogs—that’s your window of opportunity. You don’t need to wait for the barking and lunging to start before asking for help. Reactivity is easier to prevent than to fix. And while change is always possible, it becomes harder the longer it’s rehearsed. Leash reactivity doesn’t make your dog a bad dog. And it certainly doesn’t make you a bad owner. But ignoring it? That’s where the real trouble begins. If you’re struggling—or want to make sure you never get to that point—we’re here to help. Join our pack by submitting an inquiry here, or connect with us on Instagram and Facebook for helpful training tips!  Rooted in empathy. Backed by experience. Our Day Train program is created for dogs and the people who care for them.
When I created our Day Train program, I didn’t just want a place where dogs could be supervised while their owners were away and give them a space to burn off energy. I wanted to build something better. A structured, thoughtful environment where dogs could learn, grow, and feel safe. A place where clients could take a breath, knowing their dog wasn’t just being “watched,” but was being understood. This program was designed from the ground up with purpose. I’ve seen what happens in settings where structure is lacking—and I knew there had to be another way. That’s why every piece of our program has a reason behind it. A Pack with Purpose We keep our attendance numbers low: a maximum of 15 dogs, with a 5:1 dog-to-trainer ratio—the best ratio in the area. Why 15? Because that’s the natural size of a wolf pack. In the wild, packs tend to range from 5 to 20 animals**, and 15 is a comfortable middle ground that supports stability, predictability, and social order. Most of our clients book their dog in on the same day each week. That means the pack is consistent. Dogs learn who their friends are. They walk in the door and recognize the energy in the room. There’s no daily game of “who’s here today?”—just the comfort of routine. That consistency builds confidence, especially for more sensitive or anxious dogs. We’ve watched shy puppies grow into socially savvy adults simply because they had the chance to feel safe in a predictable group. This is also where our smaller group size makes a difference. In many daycare settings, you’ll find 30–40 dogs in one room. I’ve seen the toll that environment can take: dogs cowering in corners, overstimulated and unsure how to cope. That level of stress can quickly boil over into scuffles or fights. When I see that many dogs packed into a space, I have to wonder--is it really about the dogs, or is it just about numbers? Personally, I don’t believe 30 or 40 dogs should ever be put in a room together. It’s just too much—for them, and for the trainers trying to manage it. When I presented my approach to Steven Lindsay—renowned canine behaviour expert and author of the Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training—during a seminar in Missouri, he praised the structure and purpose behind the program. His words stuck with me: “This is a smart setup.” That validation meant a lot—and reaffirmed that our work is grounded in both heart and science. Training, Rest, and the Power of Balance Our days are structured with purpose:
The Importance of Rest in Daycare Settings Yes, rest is part of training. Without downtime, dogs get overstimulated and lose the ability to make good choices. Think of it like an overtired toddler—fun for no one. A balanced day of mental stimulation, movement, and rest is what helps dogs come home feeling calm and fulfilled. Built for Young Minds—But Not Just PuppiesThis program is especially beneficial for puppies and young dogs, typically up to around three years of age. It helps teach social skills, builds impulse control, and channels energy into learning. It also gives you a break—because let’s be honest, raising a puppy can be exhausting. While most adult dogs naturally begin to “age out” of needing this level of stimulation, not all do. My own dog Mia is 9 years old and still struts into the centre like she owns the place. She plays, she socializes, she thrives. We honour each dog as an individual—there’s no one-size-fits-all here. Not Every Dog Is the Right Fit (And That’s Okay)My focus has always been on the dog’s success—and part of that means recognizing when a group setting isn’t in their best interest. Some dogs struggle in a pack environment due to ongoing anxiety, lack of social skills, or being consistent instigators. If a dog is overwhelmed or creating stress for others, we’ll have a conversation with their owners. We don’t use harsh labels, and we don’t “kick dogs out.” We simply advocate for what’s best for them—and sometimes that means stepping back from this kind of environment. The goal is never to force a dog into fitting. It’s to honour who they are and what they need. And I will always be honest with you about that. That’s a promise. If I feel your dog isn’t thriving, I’ll let you know—because that kind of transparency is what you and your dog deserves. I’m here to help dogs succeed, not just fill a spot. Most of the dogs who thrive here are in their developmental prime—puppies through about three years of age. That’s when they’re soaking up social skills, learning boundaries, and building confidence. Over time, many dogs naturally outgrow the need for this kind of play-based structure. That doesn’t mean they stop learning—it just means they’ve matured. That said, some dogs never outgrow the joy of a good romp. Mia is proof of that. A Lifeline for Dog Owners This program isn’t just for the dogs—it’s for you, too. We’ve had clients tell us that Day Train and Play saved their sanity. Between work, kids, and trying to make dinner, having a dog who comes home content and settled makes all the difference. You don’t have to be “on” all day. You don’t have to feel guilty that your dog hasn’t been walked or mentally stimulated while you’re trying to manage familial responsibilities and an endless to-do list. We’re here to lighten the load and help you meet your goals—whether that’s building better leash manners, improving your dog’s ability to settle, or practicing impulse control. The training we do during the day reflects what you want help with at home. You’re not starting from scratch every night—we’ve already laid the groundwork. You get to come home to a fulfilled dog—and actually enjoy your time together. Pack Members Only. Because Connection—and Collaboration—Matters. This program is available exclusively to ICT Pack Members - aka our clients. That’s not about being exclusive—it’s about being intentional. We’ve built this around trust, consistency, and open communication. Knowing the dogs (and their people) allows us to tailor what we do to each individual—both canine and human. That means we’re not just focused on the dog’s behaviour. We’re listening to your goals, too. Every lesson, every rest break, every walk—these are chances to reinforce the kind of behaviour you want to see at home. When clients and trainers work together, dogs thrive. When your dog walks in our door, they’re not just another name on a clipboard. They’re part of our pack—and so are you. Ready to Experience the Instinct Canine Training Difference? Reach out to start your training journey and join the Day Train and Play pack! New members always receive 50%off their first Day Train and Play session. ** Sources:
 Whether you're crate training a new puppy or a newly adopted dog, this is your guide to crate training success the Instinct Canine Training way.
Welcoming a new member to your pack is an exciting time. Whether it be a young puppy or newly adopted dog, there’s not so many differences when it comes to setting your dog up for success. One of our top tips for clients welcoming a new dog into the home is to utilize crate training from day one. Crate training is a valuable tool that helps your puppy feel secure, aids in house training, and provides a safe space when you're not around. It also helps your dog get a better quality of sleep - keeping them well rested. Puppies, especially, have a hard time getting the quality of sleep they need if we just let them make their own schedule. Here’s a guide to help set your puppy or newly adopted dog up for success. Why Crate Training? Crate training gives your puppy a safe and secure space. Dogs are den animals by nature, and the crate becomes their personal den, providing comfort and aiding in house training by encouraging them to develop bladder control, as dogs generally do not enjoy sitting in their own filth. Crates also prepare puppies for situations like travel and vet visits, making these experiences less stressful. Crates are also essential in creating structure with fair boundaries. When we can’t observe our dogs while we are out of the house, we know they can’t get into anything that could hurt them, or destroy our property. It is key in preventing separation anxiety as well - a beast we create ourselves by not teaching our dogs to be comfortable on their own away from us. Setting Up the Crate
Crate Location: Where to Place the Crate Placing the crate in your bedroom, especially in the early stages, helps your puppy feel secure and provides comfort as they adjust to their new home. It’s easier to hear them if they need a potty break during the night. Over time, you can move the crate to a more permanent location, but starting in the bedroom builds trust. The Crate Schedule: Managing Crate Time A general guideline is:
Managing Barking and Crying Puppies may bark or cry in the crate, but don’t give in (even though it’s tough!) Opening the crate door when they are making noise teaches them to manipulate you, as the dog will learn that you have a limit to the amount of crying or barking you’re willing to endure before you release them. Be consistent and allow them to settle on their own. If you think they need a potty break, calmly take them outside without turning it into playtime, and return them to the crate once they’ve gone to the bathroom. If the barking is overwhelming, try earplugs to help you stay calm or take the opportunity to step outside and breathe. This not only helps you salvage some sanity, but teaches your dog that the crate is their safe place when you’re not home. The crying phase will pass as your puppy or adopted dog learns to settle in their crate. Accidents in the Crate Accidents might happen as your puppy or dog is learning. Clean up after them immediately for their comfort. Puppies are naturally clean and don’t want to soil their sleeping space. . Safety First: Collar-Free Crates Always remove your dog’s collar before putting them in the crate. In rare cases, collars can get caught, posing a choking hazard. The safest dog in a crate is one without any collars or harnesses on. Frequently Asked Questions Should you cover the crate with a blanket? Covering the crate can help dogs who are overstimulated by movement, but it may disrupt their circadian rhythm. Use it only if necessary to help with stimulation. How long can puppies hold their bladder overnight? A 3-month-old puppy can hold their bladder for about 4 hours. Adult dogs can hold it for 8-10 hours. Younger puppies may need a midnight bathroom break, so set an alarm to proactively help your puppy with bladder control (and avoid a midnight bath!) What age can a dog be crate free? Around the age of 1, some dogs can be trusted outside their crate while you’re gone, but it depends on the dog. Test with short durations before trusting them to roam free without a crate. What if I have 2 dogs? You can have different rules for each dog. If your older dog is free-roaming, keep your new puppy in a crate. Just be sure the free dog doesn’t tease or frustrate the crated one. Should I add a Pee Pad? Nope! If you place a pee pad inside the crate, you encourage them to eliminate there. We also don’t want to use them in general because it delays the training of the dog and giving them freedom to go whenever, instead of building a controlled bladder. (exceptions might be made for those who live in apartments). Crate Training TakeawayCrate training is essential for your puppy's development or welcoming a new dog into the family, providing a safe space while teaching them to be comfortable in confined situations. With consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement, your dog will see the crate as a comfortable, safe retreat they’ll enjoy settling down in. We're Here for You Every Step of the Way From crate training woes to starting your new family member on the right paw, Instinct Canine Training is your trusted resource for building a lasting bond with your dog on the foundation of trust, respect, and of course, love. Sign up for our Puppy Preschool to receive our full instructional handout on crate training and more expert advice to guide you through your puppy’s first year. Newly Adopted Dog? We can help with that too! Reach out for a consultation to ensure your dog settles into the “furever” home with ease. |
Meet the authorAnna Marie Stewart, DTTA-CPDT, is the owner and founder of Instinct Canine Training in Burlington, Ontario. Her passion and love of dogs is evident to anyone who works with her, and is an experienced trainer who works with a variety of clients to achieve a well-mannered dog. Categories
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